Affonco Botelho

Not very many years ago the journey from Oporto to Regoa had to be made partly by stagecoach and partly by rail,as the country permitted.

The stagecoach,drawn by six powerful horses,stood at the point of departure from the offices of the Coaching Company in Oporto,awaiting the final arrivals.In the wild crowd around the coach,some passengers declared that they could not get the places they had booked and others could not find their luggage.The general disturbance was penetrated from time to time by the rough language of the porters.

A young man sat in one of the places near the door.He had taken his seat early,and his luggage was all in order.The other places were all filled with the exception of the one opposite him;and this one appeared to be reserved for some passenger who had not been able to arrive in time.The driver gathered up the reins,and the guard began to sound the signal for departure.

Suddenly a strange sight came round the comer-a fat man walking like a duck,breathing hard,and waving an enormous umbrella in the direction of the coach.After him came two porters with a load of luggage.

The guard used some strong language,the luggage was lifted up,and the fat passenger climbed into the empty place.With some difficulty he found room for his umbrella and a big raincloak.

The horses set off along the stony streets of Oporto in the direction of the road leading to the railway station of the Minho-Douro line.The fat passenger seemed annoyed about something,for he muttered impatientlyto himself,and could not sit still.At last he caught the eye of the young man opposite,Joao de Sousa.

"It is too bad,sir,"he exclaimed,"Just think:I could not get my cup of tea!"

Joao de Sousa did not answer,but looked questioningly at the fat man,who went on:

"You see,it has always been my custom to take a cup of tea after my lunch;just a cup of strong black tea.I was in such a hurry to catch the coach that I did not wait for tea just now.I cannot tell you how I miss it.You see,sir,when a man comes to my age,habits are everything,and it is really dreadful to have to break your habits.Now I know I shall be miserable throughout the journey because I could not have my cup of tea.You are young,sir,but take the advice of a man who is of regular habits.When you once form a steady habit,let nothing put you off it."

Joao de Sousa was amused."But when we get to the railway station," he said,"you will be able to get tea in the refreshment room."

"Of course!I had not thought of that!It will be a little bit late after my lunch,but at least it will be something."

When they got to the station,the train was already at the platform.Everyone rushed into the refreshment room to prepare for the train journey,some by drinking a glass of wine and eating some bread and fruit,others by purchasing food to eat in the train.

The fat man sat down at one of the tables and looked round for a waiter.But there were few of them,and it was some time before he attracted the attention of one and ordered acup of tea.He was about to give details of the tea that he wanted,but the busy waiter had to attend to other orders.At last Joao de Sousa,when going off to take his place in the train,saw the fat man preparing to enjoy his favourite drink.

Presentlyhe came rushing out and climbed into the train just as the whistle sounded,he sat down opposite Joao de Sousa,and wiped his face with a brilliant silk handkerchief.

"Well?"Joao de Sousa smiled.

"My dear boy,it was green tea that the waiter brought me.I can never drink green tea!"

The train passed through the magnificent mountains,past little farm-houses and streams.Night was coming on and the setting sun had gone downbelow the hills.The fat passenger saw no beauty in the scene.He yawned and uttered impatient exclamations under his breath.De Sousa heard a moan ending with the word "tea".

"You can soon have your cup of tea,"he said."Where?"

"We leave the train atCahide and take another stagecoach."

"Ah,so we do!I had not thought of it.Many thanks for reminding me.I can get tea in the inn where the coach starts."

The fat passenger then began to sing contentedly to himself until he fell into a heavy sleep,lulled by the motion of the train.He did not open his eyes until Joao de Sousa gave him a little shake.

"What is it?Where are we?"

"We are at Cahide.We must get off here and take the coach."

"You are very kind,sir." The fat man began to gather up his luggage.

Two stagecoaches were standing outside the inn,one on the way to Villa Real and the other to Regoa.Passing the restaurant on his way to the coaches,Joao de Sousa found the fat passenger arguing violently with a waiter.He stopped to ask if he was going to Regoa or to Villa Real.

"I am going to Regoa,sir,just think of it!A terrible thing!I cannot get my cup of tea."

"That is a very serious matter indeed," said the young man gravely.

"Serious?I believe you.What sort of a restaurant is this?There is not a leaf of black tea in the place!"

"All passengers for Regoa taketheir places,please," called out the guard,an interesting figure in the old coaching dress of the place.

The fat passenger again sat down opposite Joao de Sousa.

"So you have been disappointed again,sir?"

"Don't speak of it.It is too awful.What a journey to make without my cup of tea!"

"But you will have another chance in Amatante,where we change the horses."

"Oh,I am glad.You are very good,sir."

The coach rolled on through the country roads,and in spite of the motion and the noise the passengersslept.Joao de Sousa remained awake,watching the country pass under the light of the moon:the trees,the hedges,the lights from the houses of a village on the hillside.Presently they came to the ancient bridge of Amarante,the origin of which is lost inthe mists of the past.The coach passed into the narrow stony street,and stopped outside the famous old inn of the Capadera.The dining-room of the inn was full of tobacco smoke and the smell of chocolate.The waiter advanced to show the travelers to their seats,and presently a really excellent supper was served.This Joao de Sousa thoroughly enjoyed,drinking the good wine of Valdepenas.He looked round and saw the fat passenger sitting at a corner of the table,waiting anxiously to speak to the waiter."Waiter,I want a cup of tea,strong and black,remember.No other will do."

"Sir,in an instant.I must just serve the supper,and then I will order the tea for you.What will you have for supper,sir?"

"I cannot eat anything until I have had my tea."

The waiter continued serving the great dishes of chicken and all kinds of excellent food;and bottles of good wine were passed merrily round the table.The fat passenger waited patiently.Presently it wasannounced that the coach would start in five minutes,and there was great excitement and confusion.Everyone rushed to find a place in the coach,and Joao de Sousa heard the unhappy voice of the fat passenger saying,"And my tea?Waiter,what about that tea?""In one minute,sir."

All had taken their places except the fat man,who stood at the door of the inn impatiently.As the coach had to climb the mountain for some distance,a strong team of twelve oxen had been fastened to it,gay with red caps and brass bells.The guard called to the fat passenger,"Take your place,sir,if you please.I can wait no longer."

Suddenly the waiter came running with a steaming cup of tea on a tray.The fat passenger had one foot on the step of the coach,but he uttered acry of joy,seized the cup,and raised it to his lips.But the next instant he cried out in distress,and put the cup back on the tray.

"Impossible to drink this tea,waiter.It is boiling hot.Why do you bring it like that,when the coach is just starting?"And he climbed into his place opposite Joao de Sousa,tears of pain and annoyance in his eyes.

The stagecoach climbed the hill slowly for five hours,dragged by the slow but powerful oxen.A fine rain fell on the enormous old trees beside the mountainroad,and the wind whisfied through their branches.Here and there little streams ran down from the mountain snows towards the mighty River Douro.

The driver walked beside the leader of the team,encouraging the oxen.All the passengers except Joao de Sousa slept.They passed a stone-built house near the road,and the moon threw strange reflections on its roof.Higher up they passed a littlecottage above which hung a massive block of stone which looked as if it might fall at any moment.The road grew narrower as they approached the top,and the sun rose,bathing the mountain in many colours-purple,pink and yellow.The coach stopped at an inn near the village of Quintella,and those passengers who were awake descended to stretch their legs in the pure morning air.

Joao de Sousa walked along admiring the splendour of the scenery.Peak after peak extended as far as the eye could see,and lower down shone a wide stretch of water.The whole lovely picture was framed in the great trees,and as the young man paused to draw a breath of delight,he heard a slow step approaching.A long yawn of weariness sounded close to his ear,and Joao de Sousa smiled at the sight of the fat passenger,still half asleep,and so different from the glow of the new morning.

"Well,sir,how are you?What about your tea now?"

"Oh,my dear young friend,I have really lost all hopes.There is no tea in that miserable inn;they say no one ever asks for such a thing."

The horses were ready,and the guard gave the signal for the start.They went fast down the mountain-side and were soon among dark trees and then fruit.Presently the passengers were among the grapes that grow by the Douro.By the side of the great river they drove for many miles until the houses grew thicker and gardens appeared.At last they entered the white streets of Regoa.It was just half past eight in the morning,the right hour for breakfast.

As the coach stopped at the hotel,a fine building with green shutters,the fat passenger turned to Joao de Sousa with a smile."I thank you,sir,for all your courtesy.I should have had a dreadful journey indeed without your agreeable company.I cannot tell you how I have suffered from the loss of my cup of tea.It is wrong to give up habits at my age.Take my advice,sir,and do not allow anything to interfere with a habit you have formed,if it is a good one.Now I can get my cup of tea at last.It is late,it is true,but better late than never.Permit me to introduce myself,sir.My name is Barnade dos Anjos;I am a native of the town ofFreixo-de-Espada-a-Cinta,and I am traveling to Douro on business.I hope to meet you again,sir,and in any case I am always at your service.I wish you good luck and a safe journey;and now I am going,my dear young friend,to drink your health in a cup of tea."